Mallorca Walks with Rambling Pete

Mallorca 2009 – Soller to Deia along the Gr221

2009-10-25T15:00:00.000-07:00

Mallorca 2009 – Soller to Deia along the Gr221

29th September 2009
Map: Mallorca Tramuntana Central 1:25000
Weather: Looking threatening, but pleasant sunshine

From Soller to Deia along the GR221: 8.6 miles by Satmap gps in 4 ½ hrs

We caught the bus to Soller – after studying the timetable this time – and had a leisurely drive along the coast. The road is very tortuous and quite narrow in places so we didn’t get out of second gear for a lot of the journey. But it only took ½ hr and we were soon in Soller town, stopping off at the supermarket to get some juice for today’s walk. It was a little noisy walking down the main road to get to the GR221 path, but we had a good look at some Black Vultures circling overhead, and a Red Kite flying even higher in the sky. There were big black clouds over the higher mountains at the back of Soller but although looking very threatening we didn’t get very wet, just a few spots.

A very gloomy start – they like their bonfires over here

Plenty of orange trees and almonds around

A look back to Soller town – spot the big church

The initial route out of Soller wound its way through some agricultural land in a circuitous route, passing some interesting small holdings, including a cage full of pigeons – hmmm what’s on the menu tonight then. The GR221 finally starts up on the old mule track about ½ way to Port Soller, and gently zigzags up the hillside. The way is paved with limestone blocks, cobbles, which are worn smooth in places. There are good views back to Soller, nestled beneath huge hills, and the town centre church stands proud of its surrounding buildings – with a prominent and distinctive facade. The signs show a time to walk to Deia in 2hr 45 mins, but that would be a head down walk with a following wind and no stops to take in the views – we did meet a few people like that with a bus to catch, but most ambled along.

Typical Olive grove scenery

Looking down on Port Soller

A terrace full of Crocus and an ancient olive tree

Once up on the higher ground the path winds through olive groves, and passes the path that leads down to the refugi de muletta and the lighthouse. The walk had a very different feel to the coastal walk, being very relaxing and easy walking along old farm tracks. Eventually the route leaves the tracks to join the road for a short section and turned right opposite a bar/hotel at the Son Bleda. Now I’m a great believer in taking refreshment when the opportunity arises, so we walked into a deserted bar that has a wonderful terrace with fantastic views. I had a nice chilled San Miguel with a slice of raspberry tart – absolutely delicious to go with the views out over Soller and the hills beyond.

Easy walking along wide tracks

Cala Deia in the distance

Probably my favourite view of the trip – from the terrace at Son Bleda

Once refreshed we set off across the road up a narrow lane leading up to a dilapidated church. The ivy that was overhanging the walls was alive with honey bees and the sound they made was a huge buzz – there must have been a few hives worth of bees here. Around the corner from the church was Son Mico Can Pronom a rural guest house where you can stop for a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice – so we did. The views are delicious and far reaching.

Puig l’Ofre emerges from the mist

The old house at Son Mico Can Pronom

Looking back down on the old church with Soller in the distance

The route is through the gate

The remainder of the path meandered up and down through wooded areas in dappled sunshine – pleasant enough but not very inspiring for me. We met plenty of Germans out walking today and all seemed happy to be out – most said hello, even the head down much catch the bus variety. We came out on the main road again and the route descended below Deia, through lovely olive groves once more. From this aspect I could appreciate how fertile the valley was, and how it takes the full sun. The view up to the church in Deia is different again, perched up on the top of a conical hill, but surrounded by the backdrop of the limestone cliffs.

Much of the path is along a path like this

The conical hill ahead with the church on top in Deia

Deia from the Sa Pedrossa path

Our route came down to the gorge with the torrent major, passing over some interesting limestone features – a karst landscape in miniature, with water worn mini water channels very sharp to the touch. We ignored the GR221 path here and crossed over the river to walk up the dark side of the town on the Sa Pedrossa path. There were a lot of small holdings here, and a lovely spot of sunshine, the old church glowing in the afternoon sun. That was the end of a pleasurable 5 hr walk, and surprisingly only a few raindrops to count. As we walked back through the town I stopped at what I thought was a bank machine, and nearly ended up with £100 of lotto tickets – oops.

Mallorca 2009 – Es Teix and the Archduke Lluis Salvadore’s walk

2009-10-24T12:58:00.000-07:00

Mallorca 2009 – Es Teix and the Archduke Lluis Salvadore’s walk

28th September 2009
Map: Mallorca Tramuntana Central 1:25000
Weather: Typical Manchester Weather

From Valldemossa along the valley of Es Cairats up to the Font des Polls. Turn right up the Serra des Cairats up to Es Teix. Walk down to the Archdukes path and around to Talaia Vella, and then drop down back to Valldemossa: 12.6 miles by Satmap Active 10 gps in 6 1/4 hrs

I was looking at the map of this walk upside down, and originally I had planned to walk out to Sa Galera across a stony plateau called Es Boixos. When I was reading it, it looked like Es Bollox so I didn’t bother going out to Sa Galera – the weather was rubbish anyway. When I woke this morning it looked ok outside so I took my chance and drove down to the start at Valldemossa. But when I got there I could see the low clouds around the higher peaks, but I thought I would carry on anyway – it was just like being in Manchester, but sunnier and quieter. I parked by the local football stadium – a good landmark and adjacent to the finishing point as well, with free parking.

On the outskirts of Valldemossa – up to the left

Looking back to Valldemossa

A gentle ascent into the rain

There were a few black vultures circling high above, so high that I thought that they were crows, but they were the real thing – big birds they are. Lots of the paths around here were built by the Archduke Lluis Salvadore back in the 1800’s, and he was quite a conservationist apparently. He certainly made the walking easy across difficult terrain – what a gent. Once I was kitted out I set the Satmap going and picked up plenty of satellites, checked my position on the map and started the long uphill section along Es Cairats, that’s Spanish for Jasper Carrot Way. The ascent was gentle for quite a way along a farm track that runs all the way up to the refuge where I turned off. I could see my fate early on as the rain clouds were clinging to the head of the valley, and coming from sunny Manchester I know what a rain cloud looks like – just like a walk in the Lake District except warmer.

A deep snow hole

Valldemossa far below, from the junction of Serra des Cairats

Looking down to the valley from the Serra des Cairats

I was aware of my misadventure on La Maroma (Andalucia) the previous year, so I made sure my compass and a GOOD map were handy. I had read through the Cicerone guide that Muz had kindly sent to me, so I had a reasonable idea of what was coming. I also figured fairly early on that I would have to bin the idea of the walk across to Sa Gomera – but I wouldn’t have seen anything, and it would have been all compass work, and not worth 3hrs in more cloud. So I changed the route slightly to include Talaia Vella, and what a delight it was – every cloud has a silver lining etc – it’s true, but only if you’re hill walking. It was very quiet down in the valley and I didn’t meet anyone except some goats with some superb curly horns. Unfortunately for the camera they were quite fleet of foot and scarpered as soon as they heard me coming along.

A threshing floor

Windy and wet ahead

On my way up to the summit of Es Teix

In the lower valley the cultivated terraces gave way to some wooded areas that have taken over the old terraces. Holm Oaks dominated the higher slopes, and I saw my first snow hole – deeply impressive, but built too low on the slope to preserve the winter snow apparently. There were also plenty of threshing floors\drying floors – usually close to the snow holes. These were layered rounds of ground that were mostly covered with moss – lovely and flat. There must have been a good deal of cultivation up these higher slopes back in the 18th century, but not much going on up here nowadays – too labour intensive I suppose. The track steepened as it went higher up towards the spring called Font des Polls, and I rested my sweaty torso here and had a good gulp of juice and a snack before carrying on.

The summit trig

I couldn’t see much around me

Eventually I met up with some recognisable paths

I left the good track here to follow an old mule track called the Serra des Cairats that eventually leads up to the Puig Es Teix. I checked the map and noted that this was a one way trip to the top, with a dead end branch at the end of the mule route – so I remembered to take a significant left turn when it came along. The path rose steeply up the valley side in a series of zigzags, with partial views down to the valley floor below. At this point it started to drop big watery blobs on my sparse tonsure, so it was on with the full waterproofs, and despite the sweaty climb, it kept out the wind and the rain – and boy did it rain. It was head down for a little while to avoid the worst and I reached the left turn and took it, even though the route was tempting me onwards to the dead end. I plodded steadily upwards sighting and following the stone cairns across the bare limestone pavement.

No signs coming from the other way though

A locked gate!

This cairn marks the junction of the Archdukes path

The Archdukes path ahead

Eventually I came up above the treeline and it lashed it down – I don’t think I have been out in rain like it for a long, long time. But in my head I knew that once I’d been up to the top in the mist, it would be back down below the cloud base soon enough. I knew which way the trig point was and took a bearing for it as I didn’t want to stray too far down the lee slope, I stayed up close to the escarpment edge that would lead me up to Es Teix. I couldn’t see very far and spent quite a bit of time walking sideways and admiring the plant life at my feet. It was good to see the flowering autumn crocus – Colchicums, and the usual herb garden shrubs of Rosemary and Thyme, and carefully avoided the nasty spiky mounds. The last bit to the summit was a fairly well trodden path, and I knew I was there because I bumped into the trig point. No great cairn up here, just a length of round steel pipe and a small plaque. I didn’t hang around as it was fairly inhospitable weather, but at least I have an excuse to return now.

It winds its way to higher ground

The cobble edged path in good condition

Looking back over the higher ground

I checked the map again and took a bearing to lead me down off the summit NNW. I soon found the trace of a path down a steep slope, but kept checking my direction – I’m a bit paranoid now! But it was well used and wound down to lower ground. I soon came down through the mist and spotted an estate track and a footpath beyond, both leading off in a westerly direction. It was nice to see a little ahead of me and the rain eased off as I came to the edge of the private estate. Here was a bizarre sight as there was a big stile up and over the well made wall, with a padlocked gate at the top. It didn’t make a blind bit of difference as you can just step on the wall easily enough and down the other side. From this point onwards it was still misty with showers, but got dryer and clearer the further west I walked. From the stile there was a rocky path down to meet up with the Archdukes path, with a small scrambly bit but no difficulty.

Easy walking along the tops

The path runs along the top edge of the escarpment

Looking down on the Archdukes old place

A horse trough?

Once down at the col a large pile of stones marks the junction with the path that comes up from Es Cairats past the refugi, and joins up to the Archdukes path. Here it was an unmistakeable made path, lined by limestone kerbs with crushed stone in between. It must have been like walking in the park in its heyday – a fine achievement by a forward thinking Gent of the 19th Century. The route took me to the right of the cairn and it was easy to stride out along the path, although it was still a little damp. The path is clear and gently climbs and descends, and I suppose the views from here must be magnificent on a clear crisp day. There is a viewpoint at one stage that looks down onto Deia below and I could pick out the villa we were staying in. Unfortunately Port Soller further up the coast was obscured by low cloud scudding across, but I kept getting glimpses, almost seeing the highest peak on the island at one point. There was a gentle ascent up the slopes to Puig Gross and the path tries to stick as near to the edge as it can, it certainly passes over some rocky patches, and must have taken a good deal of labour to build this, although most of the material would have come from the surrounding sandy slopes. After dropping down on a winding path to the next col at the Pla des Aritges – plain of the spikey things, there is another pile of stones marking a route down to the left that would lead you back to Valldemossa.

The path covers some rough ground easily

But don’t stand to close to the edge

Looking back along the escarpment

Port Soller in the distance

But my route was straight on the delightful Archdukes path, to Es Caragoli – the third 3000ft plus peak today ( Es Teix – 3557ft, Puig Gros – 3077ft), where there is a small plaque dedicated to the Archduke – maybe they should call all the peaks in Mallorca over 3000ft Archdukes, like Munros? Beyond Es Caragoli the path sticks very close to the edge and there are some fantastic views and vertiginous drops in places, and fittingly the weather continued to brighten. The Archdukes former estate and house of Son Marroig came into view far below, with the distinctive spur of land behind – a headland with a hole in it. I continued along the edge of the limestone scarp, ignoring any turn offs to the left that would have taken me back down to Valldemossa. There is an interesting depression in one of the rocks next to the path, being a symmetrical round depression at about the right height to be used as a drinking bowl for any passing horse or mule. I had a close look at this and I’m sure it is the hand of Manuel labour, as none of the other rocks I passed today had anything remotely similar.

The hermitage

Lovely windows

The view back to the escarpment

Deia far below

At the end of the escarpment the path turns down the lee slope and zigzags down to the Coll de Son Gallard, passing a small hermitage set into and below some rocks. The hermitage has signs requesting silence, and very peaceful it is here. It reminded me of the Monty Python sketch about the hermit having not spoken for years – I wondered how many tourists came knocking at the little door. It had a couple of plywood windows and some plastic sheeting for a roof, but it must be perishing cold in the winter months, although there is plenty of firewood lying around. So I trod softly and left by the way I had arrived, and soon got down to a crossroad of paths at the col.

The view from the Archdukes folly on

Through the square window

Looking inland

The trig point on Taleia Vella

Here I could have turned left to drop down the GR221 to Valldemossa or right to Deia – maybe next time. My route was straight up the hillside up towards the Archdukes summer house folly type building. There was an awful smell of goats’ doings low down on the slopes but thankfully that was soon behind, and the views behind me opened up to the escarpment I’d walked earlier. Up at the small building it was time for some more refreshments and to take in the vista. They must have had some good times up here, as the views are spectacular. I nearly had great views but the cloud was still spilling over Es Boixos the bollox. After a mooch around the remains it was a short walk through old olive trees to the trig point – a proper one this time, before turning downhill to wind my way back towards Valldemossa.

Looking back to the folly from the trig point

The view down to the South West

Valldemossa is just around the corner

The path crosses much limestone pavement

There were more snow holes, threshing floors, limestone pavement and goats trying to climb trees to get at the leaves. I’d noticed an interesting plant today, with fat waxy leaves, and a purple bract and stem of a flower – not the most attractive, but different for sure. It was downhill all the way now, with the path zigzagging down the hill gracefully – but it was quite full of rubble in places and hard on the feet. At the Mirador de Can Costa I stopped to take in the surrounding countryside with far views down the coast to the south west – made me think of all the people frying on the beach who never see such beauty – all the more for me though. Eventually the path met up with the GR221 leading back down to Valldemossa. It worked its way through a dreary patch of charcoal burner’s woods, with plenty of coppiced trees abounding and some large square piles of stones – don’t know what these were used for.

The stony path down to Valldemossa

Water flows down off the mountains through old pipework - sometimes

Then it was on to more downhill, steeply in places but easy going and eventually a glimpse of the Astroturf pitch in Valldemossa, so I knew I wasn’t far away. I came out onto a road next to a fence with a small sign pointing the way to Es Teix and wandered through the streets to the car. It was a great walk, very satisfying with something for all, but my shins weren’t half sore from last week’s walk in Glencoe – it’s worth the pain though. All that was needed know was the short drive back to Deia for a nice cooling San Miguel – not a bad day out after all.

Mallorca 2009 – Cuber to sa Rateta and l’Ofre

2009-10-24T12:17:00.000-07:00

Mallorca 2009 – Cuber to sa Rateta and l’Ofre

1st October 2009
Map: Mallorca Tramuntana Central 1:25000
Weather: Sunshine with some cloudy patches

A round from Cuber reservoir up to Sa Rateta, along the ridge to na Franquesa and Puig de l’Ofre. Drop down to the GR221 and return to the start: 8 miles by Satmap gps in 5 hrs, with plenty of stops.

Big black clouds swathed the hills behind Deia, which was disappointing as I was going to be up at the same height a little further inland. I expected the worse when I drove over to Soller and saw the backdrop of swirling clouds over the higher peaks, with the valley covered in a veil of smoke from 2 fires in the town. Leaving Soller on the road to Cuber is a slow grind uphill most of the way, which meant the walk starting at a height of 2600ft, so the car does most of the work thankfully.

Early morning smog over Soller – weather a bit gloomy!

But by the time I got to Cuber, I could see Puig Major

However my walk was looking a bit misty

Below the dam

The highest peak today was sa Rateta at 3650ft, and it was still a good work out in getting up there. This was essentially a ridge walk with a return to the valley back to the start – nice and simple and hard to go wrong you would assume. I parked the car by the entrance to the reservoir and there were already a good few people out and about, some picking mushrooms and plenty of others bird watching. This is a good spot for seeing the Black Vultures flying overhead, and the guide book says it’s also good for spotting Ospreys. But with so many people around I doubted it, and it’s probably only a certain time of year that they can be seen. The highest peak in Mallorca was bearing its head occasionally, and it wears a great big golf ball – an army radar station apparently – Puig Major is 4700ft but out of bounds to walkers.

The path down from the dam on the other side of the valley

Steeply up and left

Some miniature Karst scenery – razor sharp

Sa Rateta is still out of sight

I set the GPS and set off at a gentle pace, a nice warm up along the flat reservoir path, and I pondered the route ahead. I decided to go around the valley to the side of sa Rateta as suggested by Muz of the walking forum, and it was definitely more interesting than going up the front of Sa Rateta. You have to think of the limestone pavement at Malham tilted over at 45deg to have some idea of the landscape. There was lots of bare rock to walk up, lots of rock ledges and it is very grippy for the boots. Just before the dam I veered off on an obvious path that took me down into the gorge before climbing up the left side of the river. I wasn’t 100% sure that this was the correct way, but it seemed to be the path, full of limestone rubble but ok to walk on.

Looking back down the valley – Sa Rateta is up to the left

The way ahead was up rock ledges to the top

Great views the higher I got

Onwards and upwards – easier than it looks

The clouds had gradually lifted from the tops and so did my spirits with the prospect of some good views along the valley. Again it was very peaceful along this side valley and I didn’t meet anyone until I got to the end of the ridge at Puig l’Ofre. After climbing up the side of the valley the path dropped down steeply to the torrent d’Almedra at the bottom of the valley to cross over to the sa Rateta side. There were some handy stepping stones in the stream, and then a left turn to walk alongside the water pipes for a while, gaining height gradually. There was a sign posted on a tree that said ‘Vedat de Caca’ – I wasn’t sure what that meant, but it didn’t sound very nice. My legs were a bit sore today, and my knees have had some hard work over the last two weeks, not to mention all the full meals and beer. But I made good progress up hill and nearly missed the turn off to sa Rateta. Luckily for me I had referenced the map and noted the path would be opposite the valley behind me, and as I was looking around I spotted 2 small cairns and a red dot – phew. So it was a hop up on the wall and up a steep rock path marked with stone cairns – it was still easy walking on a trace of a path.

Looking back to the Tossals Verd across the valley

Sa Rateta is off to the right at the top of the grassy bit

On the summit – stupendous views down over Cuber

The GR221 is clear to see in the valley – pity about the rest of the route!

I made my way up the valley on a reasonable trail, and checked for more small stone cairns to guide me along. I found that there are plenty within eyesight to make a beeline for the next one, so I never really felt lost. I occasionally checked the gps to establish my exact position, but really didn’t use it much for this route. Once I was up at the Coll des Bosc I came across another set of marks pointing me up and away from the valley to the flanks of sa Rateta. It looked very steep in places but like lots of routes, looks can be deceptive and I followed a whole series of rock ledges that zigzagged delightfully uphill for a while. There were good views back towards the Tossals Verd range of hills – another route for the notebook, and there was more and more sunshine. The slopes were sparsely vegetated, with small scrubby, spiky plants with trees dotted here and there, and in the valleys some tussocky grass growth.

Steeply down off Sa Rateta to the Coll des Gats

Looking back to Sa Rateta from my lunch spot

The pork pie hills

The seemingly barren flanks of this ridge

Across the valley to the SE were three pork pie hills – with a distinctive cap of limestone, and beyond that were the plains of Mallorca. There was a grassy valley cut into the scarp slope, and the path skirted and contoured around, gently ascending the hillside. The summit of sa Rateta eventually came into view, and then it was simply a question of heading for the cairn marker across the bare limestone. I could see many geckos scurrying into cracks as I walked along, but there wasn’t much wildlife up here – some flocks of Goldfinches and the odd African Swallow – they are much chunkier than the ones that visit the UK. I got to the top and stared down on the Cuber reservoir, and beyond that the Embassament des Gorg Blau – reservoir. Far below me were the return paths I would be on later, and up ahead was the cloud laden ridge – rats.

A brief moment of clarity – pointy Puig l’Ofre

Much of the moist air was sweeping in from the sea, over Soller and gets funnelled to the top of the valley, forming clouds, then spilling over onto the Puig l’Ofre. There were some dramatic cloudscapes but I would have rather seen all before me, instead of just the next hill. But the vista I could see was superb so I stopped and had a ponder of my surroundings, a can of coke and a smile. The walk continued as close to the edge as I wanted, and it was all along bare rock so I had to watch where I was treading – there was a very feint path, but you can just pick your own way along. The route off the end of sa Rateta drops down to the Coll des Gats very steeply, but the rock is rough and hence you get a good grip with the boots. So I could walk down easily, but carefully, and maybe it is a different story in the wet. As with all drops down off a hillside, what goes down must go up and I’d lost about 400ft of height. There was a strange flat grassy area between the hills here, the only flat patch of ground around for miles. Unsurprisingly it was well cropped and full of sheep droppings, but surprisingly it was also very wet – probably the reason it is here in the first place. I did see a spring popping out of the ground the next day in a completely random place – very bizarre. Towards the end of the grassy flat I could see the route ahead skirting around to the left side of the crag in front of me – no rock climbing today thanks – and I took a nice rock ledge following the cairns along. As the sun was out I decided on a pit stop, found a perch and sat down for a rest – it was so peaceful and warm in the sun, I could have sat there for ages, so I did. Once refreshed I worked my way around the rock ledges, and once again it was up bare rock to the summit, and this time I had a quick view of l’Ofre before it once again disappeared into its cloud hat.

A long way to the valley floor from na Franquesa

A drystone wall on dry rocks – it’s mine all mine

Looking back to na Franquesa from the l’Ofre ridge

The ridge up to the summit of Puig l’Ofre is an easy walk

It wasn’t so steep off the side of na Franquesa down to the Coll des Cards and I didn’t drop so much height, but it was still steep enough down off the top. Both of the Colls had drystone walls to the steep side, but only this one has a path that drops back down to the valley below. The path ahead passes by an electric pylon and here I met an organised walk group coming down from Puig l’Ofre. This was the second group of Brits I’d met and both groups had been very reserved with not much chit chat going on – they didn’t exactly look like they were enjoying themselves either. The ridge walk up to the peak of l’Ofre was very easy, along a rocky path through lovely scented pine trees, and was well marked with cairns. But the mist came down once more and I didn’t see much of my surrounds. The path cuts up to the summit to the right up a small rocky scramble, and there were a few Germans up there having a good time Ja. It was a bit disappointing not to have any views, so I waited around for about 30mins to see if the top would clear.

Looking back along my route today

The summit of Puig l’Ofre – nothing to see here

The track that skirts around to the Coll de l’Ofre

From the Coll looking back to Cuber – my ridge route is up to the right

In the meantime I chased a Yellow Swallowtail around, but it wouldn’t settle for a picture – until the next day, and even then it was only a head shot. Eventually I tired of waiting and made my way down off the conical path. I took a compass reading, but in reality the path was easy enough to follow down – steep and loose in places – and beware the limestone is very sharp in parts and could cause some nasty cuts. The path circled the hillside on a good farm track and I soon was at the Col l’Ofre, part of the GR221 route at the top of the Barranc de Binairaix. Soller was down to the left, and my route back to the car was down the valley to my right. There is a big cross on the col and this is a busy picnic spot as it has fantastic views back to the Cuber reservoir.

Sa Rateta resplendent in sunlight

The Refugi de Caca

Looking across to the Tossals Verd

Looking back up the valley – I had the best of the weather

Puig Major

The path drops down through pine woods following the GR221, emerging onto a wider track that returns down to the Refugi de Caca – and yes the refuge does have some toilets. It was nice to look up to the ridge I had walked today, very atmospheric with big blue skies ahead, with the darkness following along behind me. I definitely got the better of the weather today – ha ha. I had a gentle walk around the north side of the reservoir back to the car at the start, and was rewarded with the sight of big Black Vultures soaring high overhead. They were there the next day, as was the donkey with the big appendage – I can’t say I get that excited about an apple though.

Mallorca 2009 – Deia to Soller

2009-10-24T10:55:00.000-07:00

Mallorca 2009 – Deia to Soller

27th September 2009
Map: Mallorca Tramuntana Central
Weather: Some sunshine, with a touch of cloud cover

From the villa in Deia along the coastal path to Port Soller, via the Refugi de Muleta: 8.5 miles by Satmap Active 10 gps in 4 ½ hrs

We arrived in Deia on Saturday afternoon, picked the car up and drove slowly up to Deia. Settled in to the villa and had a little walk about the town. The highlight of the first day was seeing a very overweight gent running back along the main road to rescue an oversize teddy bear that had fallen off his scooter. He was desperate to get there before cars started to run over it. He had another one which was under the back wheel of his bike – a comical start to the trip, which was followed by seeing Bart Simpsons dog in Deia.

The hilltop church – Robert Graves grave is here

Down towards the road to Cala Deia

One of the two restaurants that overlook the inlet

Another view from higher up above the cove

Day 2 dawned and it was fine with a little hazy sunshine, Mrs RP had checked the bus timetable last night and said there was a bus to Soller at 10am, so we planned the day accordingly. Well surprise, surprise Cilla, the bus was at 11:45 – not far out – so we had to walk to Soller instead, which was no big deal except that it was Sunday so we had to time the walk well enough to catch the 4pm bus back to Deia. Needless to say with all the time we spent messing about we missed the bus, so ended up in a taxi – an expensive mistake, but ‘hey’ were on holiday. The present exchange rate is making most things quite expensive in Europe, however fresh air is free and there was plenty of it.

The path close to the edge in places – looking towards Soller

There is much erosion like this along the coast

We set out on the Gr221 to Soller, a well signposted route that went right past the villa. It was easy walking for most of the way, and there were several rustic stiles to climb over. They don’t look like they could take the weight of many walkers, but they are well polished struts of pine nailed and wired together. The GR221 is Mallorcas LDP that runs from the SW of the island through the Tramuntana Mountains to the North coast – I think I’d rather do the UK LDP’s though – I like a little bit of luxury or failing that a pint or two at the end of a day’s walking. The route took us down to the Cala Deia through a deep cut gorge following the torrent major, and above the small hamlet at the cove – it has a couple of small restaurants that cook up freshly caught fish.

Looking back along coast

Not all of the path is crumbling away

Before we got down to the beach level we veered off to the right, which took us up above and around the bay. The coastal path is very badly eroded in places due to landslips and fallen trees, and it is slow progress in one or two places. That also involved a degree of scrambling up old terraces, a limbo underneath a fallen trunk, and being high above the rocks on top of a steep slope. So it’s not the easier of the options of walking between Deia and Soller – the GR221 route is simpler (see later).

Typical Mallorcan coastal scenery

Some artwork in a tree – a bit random really, but appreciated

How to get past the tree – the choice is yours

High above the sea at times

The path generally stuck close to the sea, a couple of hundred feet in places, with glorious views – better than the GR221 route which is higher up the slope through woods. It was the usual Mediterranean mix of pine forest, washed clean by recent rains, and white limestone which was pretty sharp in places. I guess we were lucky this week because the last entry in the guestbook said that it was the wettest September since the 70’s, and they spent most of the time in the local bars. I thought that we see some rain as the forecast wasn’t the best, and I had set my GPS to UTM co-ordinates to match the reference on the map I had, and they concurred well enough to mark our progress. Several spots along the coast had chopped down trees to use as seats and tables, but we found a quiet olive grove to sit and refresh with a snack after a couple of hours walking.

Tree mayhem – there’s a lot of this

The valley next to this was badly eroded requiring a diversion

Eventually we came out onto cultivated terraces

And once on the GR221, it is well signposted

And very easy walking

The gentle rhythm of the walk was interrupted the landslides, more so on the second half of the walk, but it did make for a bit of fun – but watchout for scratched legs and arms. We met a few Germans along the way today, saying hello to most, and as with most walkers, all seemed friendly enough no matter what the language. We did pass by some locals out for a walk and they looked like a fully kitted out Ninja Turtle group complete with sweat bands, double walking sticks, big backpacks and very sweaty T-shirts. It was nicely warm today at about 25deg, almost perfect with a light breeze blowing through the trees. We finally left the coastal path when we met a road and a small hotel and villas, and had a trudge uphill for a mile or so before meeting up with the GR221 again. We continued down a wide farm track, passing through olive groves in pleasant sunshine, with a distant view of Mallorca’s highest peak – Puig Major – towering above all in the distance.

Port Soller comes into view

The lighthouse at Cap Gros

With Mallorca’s highest mountain in the background

Port Soller – Puig l’Ofre is the pointy mountain

The path split with a signpost down towards the Refugi de Muleta, and we followed the old mule route downhill all the way to the Refugi. We were glad to spot the lighthouse and reach the refuge for some refreshments. The manager told us there was no food as it had to be pre-booked – it did look nice though. So we bought some drinks and then he told us we could have a sandwich of dry bread, ham and cheese with olives and tomatoes – deliciously simple and very tasty. After eating our fill we sat back and forgot about time, and as I was looking at the camera a lovely lady walked by and her dress blew up in the wind. Apparently she wasn’t wearing any knickers – or so my wife told me. So off we set again and took some pictures of the lighthouse and lo and behold there was a cafe right next door to the refuge – typical, but I didn‘t mind really.

One of the old trams – based on the San Francisco ones

One of Picassos ceramics – happy to be here

Meanwhile back in Deia it looked a bit ominous for tomorrow

But then again not so bad either

Then we were out on the road walking down to Port Soller, watching the ferries sail in and out, and people watching all the way along the promenade – some not so pretty sights I can tell you. We hopped on the open tram back up to Soller town, where we had a look around the Picasso museum of ceramics – what a talent that man was. We missed the bus but weren’t that bothered, so we had an ice-cream, and looked for a taxi – we found one and the driver told us to naff off, then changed his mind and ordered us in! It was a set price so we didn’t mind and he drove serenely around the bends back to Deia and an appointment with a San Miguel. A great little stroll leaving me ready for a good feed and a good walk tomorrow.

Mallorca 2009 - Puig L'Ofre from Cuber

2009-10-24T10:35:00.000-07:00

Mallorca 2009 – Cuber to l’Ofre and back again

2nd October 2009
Map: Mallorca Tramuntana Central 1:25000
Weather: Sunshine with some cloudy patches

From the Cuber reservoir up the GR221 to Puig de l’Ofre and back via Coll des Cards to the GR221: 7 miles by Satmap gps in 4 ½ hrs – but who’s counting?

After yesterdays disappointment of the cloud cover over Puig l’Ofre I managed to persuade Mrs RP to join me for a walk back up to the top. We stopped at the local store in Deia and bought a few things for a picnic – pasties and the like – and to be honest they didn’t last long. As we arrived the small parking area was already full so we nipped around the corner to another car park that served the Tossals Verd walks. It was looking good for our walk and the golf ball on top of Puig Major was shining brightly in the sun, but there were still clouds scudding around the surrounding hills.

Puig Major with the radar station – some lovely hills surround the area

Puig l’Ofre peaking up behind Sa Rateta on the left

But generally the sky was clear and it looked set fair for a good day out as we set out on the GR221 once again. We passed by the donkey – he wasn’t so pleased to see me today – and a little further on was a very persistent dung beetle shoving for all his worth a body sized piece of dung. Amazing to watch for a little while, it shoved with its back legs up and over rocks the equivalent size of a house. Up towards the head of the valley things were looking up and the ridge I walked yesterday was clear of cloud. But as we walked up through the woods I could see the hint of mist forming up around l’Ofre, and as we got to the Coll de l’Ofre and looked back down the valley the ridge was now looking a bit fuzzy – doh.

Looking back to the refugi from the GR221

At the Coll de l’Ofre

Some great skyscapes – but no view down to Soller - again

So we sat amongst the Germans and had a delicious little picnic of a slice of cold pizza, a vegetable pasty, and a can of coke – lovely. After 30 mins of relaxation we made our way around the base of Puig l’Ofre and started up the steep slope to the top. It only took about 35mins from the Coll de l’Ofre and the steep pull was 20 mins of that. Up on the summit again there was more frustration as the clouds billowed in from Soller – mind you they did look quite spectacular, so once again we sat and waited to see if they would clear away. But although they broke now and again, it looked like they were there to stay. There was a young German couple and a single gent up on the summit, so I asked if the couple would like their photo taken – ‘Ja please, but make sure that man isn’t in the picture’ – in the loudest voice they had.

The GR221 snakes along the valley back to Cuber

The plains of Mallorca beyond the pork pie hills to the east

That made us laugh, so after chasing the butterfly around again, and nailing a photo of it, we walked back down the path we had come up, and took the route down the ridge of Puig l’Ofre to the Coll des Cards followed by the young German couple. They overtook us as we were looking out for a clear path back down to the valley. I checked the map and made for the far end of a grassy patch and followed the couple downhill until the next clearance. At this stage the mist had come right down and the rain started to fall lightly – fortunately it didn’t last long and we didn’t bother with waterproofs.

Looking down on the Col de l’Ofre

The Yellow Swallowtail

At another pylon the couple continued to the north while we turned the corner to follow a track to the south. About 5 mins later we had both turned around and met in the middle, but the Germans strode past us heading along the forest track. I wasn’t convinced, so it was out with the Satmap GPS, checked position on the map and sniffed out the correct path down to the GR221. Here we found the spring bursting forth from a patch of grass and running down hill on what looked like a path. So knowing water flows downhill along the easiest route, we set off to follow the stream, and lo and behold there was the path.

The feint path down to the valley – the Germans missed this one

Refugi de Caca ahead – with the rude donkey

The view from Soller – now you see me - harumph

Some 5 mins later we were down on the wide farm track, way ahead on the track in front of the Germans – we knew this one wouldn’t go to penalties. Even the donkey was pleased to see me again at the refuge – bad boy. As we walked around the reservoir a glance back up the valley showed the hills to be clear as a bell – rats – if we’d only waited another 30mins, but then again who knows. As we drove through Soller we had the clearest view of the mountains all week – ‘I don’t bloody believe it’ going home tomorrow. But I think I’ll be back in spring maybe, Mallorca is a brilliant place for a walk.